Like a lightning strike, Dan Farrell-Wright’s view on wine changed. It was the morning after the night before. The bride and groom had left for their honeymoon, the guests were sleeping off the Bacchanalian feast, and Dan was clearing away the last of the lipstick stained glasses, half-empty bottles of claret, and the crumbs of bacon baps enjoyed at midnight.
“What a party!” exclaimed the father of the bride as he stumbled into the marquee, still slightly oiled. He handed Dan a heavy box to thank him for all the hard work organising the previous day’s celebration. That was thirty years ago and that box changed how Dan thought about wine, forever.
Back then wine education consisted of Oz Clarke and Jilly Goulden on BBC Two, or the sales assistant at Threshers. Then, as now, supermarkets and off licence shelves were loaded with mass produced wines made from ‘international’ grape varieties. Wines which are perfectly drinkable and occasionally even enjoyable.
But the box contained something different. Inside was wine with soul, wine with a story to tell, wine which was distinctive.
The box was a case of ‘grower’ Champagne – a Champagne where the vigneron both grows the grapes and makes the wine. By contrast, major Champagne brands rarely own vineyards choosing instead to buy in grapes. Grower Champagne reflects the unique story of the land and the dedicated people who have nurtured it, often for generations.
The first sip was a eureka moment. Dan had only ever thought of grapes – I like Cabernet Sauvignon, I don’t like Chardonnay – but here was a wine which focussed on a place, a time, a person. It kick-started a life-long mission to discover distinctive wines with stories to tell. Distinctive wines which make each sip special!
As part of that ongoing mission, Dan is bringing Wickhams Wine “The Fabulous Fifty” to Toby’s Garden Festival. In the historic surroundings of Powderham Castle dining room, you will have the opportunity to try (and buy) the fifty wines that are perfect for summer – including three cuvées from Luc Monnereau, representing grower Champagne producer Champagne Gérin. On hand will also be Ben and Lucy Hulland from Huxbear near Exeter, Lionel Reyser from organic producer Domaine Hubert Reyser in Alsace, and Max Henry from the sustainable vineyards of Haut Marin in Gascony.
Fabulous 50 is free to visitors at Toby’s Garden Festival, Powderham Castle, Kenton on Friday 2 and Saturday 3 May 2025
